The most common
materials with which to build your
pond are flexible pond liners or
solid preformed ponds. Whichever
you select, we recommend you always
follow the manufacturer's instructions
for installation. However, this
guide provides a brief description
for installing a pre formed pond
and a flexible pond liner.
Remember, ponds
should be placed in a sunny location
(with a minimum of six hours of
sunlight a day) and away from trees
and bushes, if possible. You may
want to place the pond within easy
view from your most used outdoor
space. The pond should be accessible
to a garden hose and electrical
line. Consult your electrician for
proper electrical requirements.
It is important
to know how many gallons of water
that is in your pond. Knowing this
can help you determine the number
of fish the pond can hold, is important
when calculating partial water changes
and using pond water conditioners,
medications and fish food. The easiest
method to calculate the volume is
to measure the amount of water used
to initially fill your pond. Before
filling the pond for the first time,
note the time in seconds it takes
to fill a five U.S. gallon (20 L)
bucket with tap water at a constant
flow rate from a garden hose. Then,
fill the pond at this same constant
flow rate, using the garden hose.
Record the time (in seconds) that
it takes to fill the pond. Then
use the following formula to determine
the volume of your pond.
Time in "seconds"
to fill the pond X The Gallons /
Liters of the Bucket ÷ Time required
to fill the bucket in seconds =
Gallons / Liters in the Pond
Example:
Using a 5 Gallon bucket. Say it
took 75 seconds to fill the bucket
with the garden hose and it took
4 hours (14,400 seconds) to fill
the pond with the garden hose.
The number of
Gallons = 14,400 X 5 ÷ 75 The answer
is 960 Gallons.
If the pond
is already filled, the number of
gallons can be approximately calculated
using one of the following formulas.
Square And
Rectangle Ponds
Length x Width
x Average Depth in Feet x 7.5 =
Number of U.S. Gallons in your pond
Example:
A pond with a length of 8 feet,
width of 6 feet and a average depth
of 2 feet has 720 U.S. Gallons.
(8 x 6 = 48 Then take the 48 x 2
= 96 Then the 96 x 7.5= 720 gallons)
Round Ponds
Top Diameter
x Bottom Diameter x Height (in feet
or meters) x .785 = Volume of Pond
Example:
[3' (.9144 m) TD x 3'
(.9144 m) BD x 2' (.6 m) H] x .785
= A pond volume of 14.13 cubic feet
(.39 cubic meters)
Converting Volume
to Gallons/Liters
Cubic feet (ft-3)
x 7.5 = Gallons
Cubic Meters (m-3) x 1000 = Liters
Multiply 108 ft-3 x 7.48 = 807 Gallons
or 3 m-3 x 1000 = 300 Liters
*Note: 1 UK Imperial Gallon
=1.2 US Gallons or 4.5 liters.
Use the above
formulas to figure US gallons.
Then divide that answer by 1.2,
which will give you the UK Imperial
Gallons.
(___US Gal ÷ 1.2 =___UK Gal)
To convert US Gallons to liters,
multiply the US gallons by 3.78.
(__ US Gal x 3.78 = ___Liters)
Once the pond
is installed, you are ready to fill
it with water. The pond water will
need to be conditioned properly
before adding fish and plants. Some
people say, "I don't need to add
water conditioners to my natural
pond. Why add chemicals?"
The short answer
is that tap water is NOT pond water
and the usual backyard pond isn't
a "natural" pond. Municipal water
is treated with chlorine or chloramine,
to make it safe for human drinking
water; these are chemicals that
are dangerous to fish and can harm
plants. Adding PondCare®
brand water conditioners to tap
water neutralizes these chemicals.
These substances need to be removed
from tap water every time you add
water to your pond.
A natural pond
has a constant supply of fresh water,
such as a stream or spring, and
the "dirty" water exits the pond,
taking fish wastes and other toxins
with it. This just isn't true for
a backyard pond. For fish in a natural
pond there are thousands of gallons
of water for each fish. How many
fish are in the average 500-gallon
ornamental pond? Most likely too
many! In short, a backyard water
garden is a closed system. You and
Mother Nature both need a little
help to keep the pond water safe
for fish. This is why the proper
addition of selected PondCare®
water conditioners turns tap water
into pond water and helps maintain
a more natural environment for the
plants and fish.
All municipal
water contains chlorine or chloramine;
both of which are toxic to fish.
Even small traces of chlorine or
chloramine will irritate the fish
and damage gill tissue. Chloramine
is a combination of chlorine and
ammonia that is used to treat tap
water in many municipalities. Use
PondCare®Ammo-Lock® 2 to instantly
neutralize these compounds, making
tap water safe for the pond.
Heavy metals
from both municipal and well water
sources can accumulate in ponds
over time, posing a health risk
to pond life. PondCare® Chlorine
and Heavy Metal Neutralizer will
effectively detoxify heavy metals
as well as remove chlorine from
your tap water. It is advisable
to always treat your tap water with
either Chlorine and Heavy Metal
Neutralizer or Ammo-Lock-2 whenever
you add water to your pond.
When adding
fish, it is important to use PondCare®Stress
Coat® to maintain the fish's
protective slime coating. Stress
Coat contains Aloe Vera, which replaces
the slime coating and promotes healing
of abrasions that occur during handling,
spawning and other time of stress.
Fish also need electrolytes such
as potassium, sodium, magnesium,
chloride and calcium to maintain
the proper chemical balance within
their bodies. PondCare®Pond Salt
provides these essential electrolytes
that fish and all living creatures
in your pond need to survive.
The Pond Filter
The filter is
of key importance in keeping your
pond water crystal-clear and free
of chemical pollutants. Mechanical
filtration refers to the physical
removal of debris from the water
by filtration materials, such as
foam pads, that trap suspended particles.
These pads are your first line of
defense in removing debris from
your pond.
Chemical filtration
removes pesticides, colors, odors,
organic waste, excess nutrients,
and other harmful chemicals from
your pond. Aquarium Pharmaceuticals
Filter Carbon, Activated Carbon
Coated Pads, Phosphate Remover,
and Ammo-Chips can be used in the
filter for chemical filtration.
They increase
the efficiency of your filter, providing
better water quality and improving
fish health.
The biological
compartment of your pond filter
provides a place for beneficial
bacteria to grow on special media.
Known as the "biological filter"
these beneficial bacteria convert
poisonous compounds (ammonia and
nitrite) into less toxic nitrate.
The end by-product, nitrate, is
used as a food source by aquatic
plants. This continuous process
is called the nitrogen cycle. PondCare®Ammo-Rocks,
which is 100% all-natural zeolite,
provides an excellent medium for
growing bacteria, meanwhile removing
ammonia from the water before it
reaches harmful levels. Ammo-Rocks
should be placed in your filter
for peak performance.
New ponds have
no active biological filtration.
When fish are first added to a pond,
they immediately begin releasing
toxic ammonia as a waste product
Uneaten fish foods and decaying
plant materials lead to an increase
in ammonia and build-up of organic
waste. These conditions inhibit
the development of the biological
filter, thus prolonging stressful
conditions in your pond.
PondCare®BioFilter
Booster™ speeds the development
of the biological filter by removing
these inhibitory substances. BioFilter
Booster is a highly concentrated,
very stable liquid solution of specifically
selected bacteria, which will accelerate
the development of the biological
filter. Regular use of BioFilter
Booster will reduce organic sludge
and other pollutants, creating ideal
conditions for the pond's beneficial
bacteria.
Fountains & Waterfalls
Flowing water
enhances your pond's appeal with
pleasing sounds and fluid motion.
Moreover, fountains and waterfalls
add oxygen to the water, which is
important to the health of your
fish and to the proper functioning
of the biological filter in your
pond. But whether you choose to
run a fountain, or simply to circulate
water through your filter, selecting
the correct water pump is crucial
for successful pondkeeping.
The size of
the water pump you select will depend
on what you wish to accomplish.
The water pump should be at least
large enough to circulate the entire
pond volume at least once every
two hours. For example, a 700-gallon
pond will need a 350-gallon-per-hour
pump. Consideration must also be
given to the difference in height
between the pond's water level and
the highest point to which the water
must travel. If you wish to run
a stream or waterfall, you will
likely need to use a more powerful
water pump.
The pre-filter
is an all-important component of
the water pump. It protects your
pump from leaves and other debris
that can damage its internal parts.
It is best to position your pump
in the pond so that it is slightly
elevated from the bottom; this helps
prevent clogging. Also, place your
pump as far as possible from your
waterfall or filter to help ensure
that the entire pond is re-circulated
through the filter.
PondCare®Pond
Water Pumps from Rena are designed
specifically for ponds and water
gardens. They have only one moving
part, contain no toxic oil to leak
into your pond and are UL approved
in both the United States and Canada.
All RenaÒ pumps come complete with
a pre-filter and filter foam for
easy cleaning. Every Rena pump is
energy-efficient and backed by a
five-year guarantee.
It is exciting
to see the lush foliage and beautiful
flowers produced by your aquatic
plants. The diversity of plants
available can make every pond a
unique delight. Plants provide protection
and spawning areas for your fish,
consume algae-promoting nutrients
and offer shade from sunlight that
would otherwise promote the growth
of unsightly algae. Plants also
produce oxygen during daylight hours
through the process of photosynthesis.
It is during the daytime, when pond
temperatures are at their highest,
that fish have the greatest need
for oxygen. A properly planted pond
will allow your water garden to
come as close as possible to a balanced
environment like those found in
nature. Coverage of 50% of the pond
surface with plants is highly recommended.
The type of
plants selected should satisfy the
needs of your pond and your desires
as well. See your local plant dealer
for the best plants for your area.
Aquatic plants can be grouped into
the following three categories.
The first category
includes floating plants. These
plants grow with part or all of
their foliage on or near the surface
of the water. There are two types
of floating plants, distinguished
by the location of their roots.
One type grows with its roots in
the soil and its leaves at the surface.
Examples of this group include lilies,
parrot's feather, and lotus. The
second type grows so that the entire
plant appears at the water's surface,
with roots dangling in the water.
Water hyacinths, clover, water lettuce,
and Azolla are examples of plants
in this group.
The second category
includes submerged aquatic plants.
Submerged plants grow entirely beneath
the surface of the water. Submerged
plants are very efficient at utilizing
nutrients, which would otherwise
promote algae blooms. Submerged
plants improve water quality, provide
an area for fish to spawn and serve
as shelter for small fish. Examples
of submerged plants include Elodea,
Anacharis and Hornwort.
The third category
is comprised of marginal or bog
plants. These aquatic plants grow
in shallow water and bog areas.
Most prefer water two to six inches
deep - conditions where roots can
be wet, but stems and leaves can
be above the water's surface. Cattails,
sweet flag, rush and iris are examples
of plants in this category. The
more plants you have the better
for you water clarity.
In a water garden
environment, it is often advisable
to place your plants in pots. This
enables you to change planting heights,
reposition plants, prune and separate
when necessary, and allows for easy
removal for winter storage and pond
maintenance. As in regular landscape
plants the pH of the environment
is important to plant growth. In
the pond the environment is the
water, so you need to check the
pH of the pond water. This is easily
and quickly done with a PondCare®pH
Level Test Kit. The ideal ph level
is in the 6.8 to 7.8 range and the
pH Level Test Kit includes instructions
on what to do if you pH is too high
or low.
Aphids are one
of the most destructive pests of
aquatic plants. Aphids can appear
on aquatic plants anytime during
the growing season. Winged adults
can easily spread from nearby gardens
and fields. Aphids feed on aquatic
plants by piercing the leaves, stems,
and buds and suck out plant fluids.
Each time an aphid pierces the plant
the surrounding tissue begins to
die. Entire leaves and buds can
be destroyed by aphid damage. Some
insecticides can be poisonous to
fish.
PondCare®Herbal
Aphid Control is formulated with
mint and thyme oils, natural insecticides
that kill aphids on contact. Because
Herbal Aphid Control uses these
natural oils leaves no oil film
on the pond water.
All plants need
adequate nutrition to produce lush
growth and stimulate flower formation.
In the case of potted aquatic plants,
PondCare®Aquatic Plant Food Tablets
will provide the appropriate nutrients
needed for beautiful foliage and
colorful flowers. Floating plants
and many submerged aquatic plants
has needs that are different from
potted varieties. These plants benefit
from PondCare®Aquatic Plant Stimulant,
which adds only the necessary nutrients
to stimulate continuous flowering
and lush growth of all aquatic plants.
It is a concentrated solution of
six of the most important trace
elements often lacking in a pond:
magnesium, zinc, copper, iron, molybdenum,
and boron. A deficiency or total
lack of just one of these elements
can result in decreased flowering
and growth of pond plants.
Many aquatic
plants such as water hyacinths,
water lettuce and elodea will flourish
with Aquatic Plant Stimulant. Regular
use of Aquatic Plant Food Tablets
and Aquatic Plant Stimulant together
provides a complete fertilization
program. This will nourish the continuous
formation of buds, spectacular flowers,
and lush foliage on all of your
pond plants, and also increase winter
hardiness of perennial plants.
Keeping beautiful,
healthy fish in your pond is easy,
if you pay attention to proper nutrition
and water quality. Adding too many
fish or over-feeding will cause
poor health and disease problems.
A general rule for success is to
add three to four inches of fish
for every square foot of pond surface
in a filtered pond. Too many fish
will result in poor water quality
and low oxygen levels. Waste materials
excreted into your pond by fish,
along with decaying plant matter,
can create a build-up of toxic substances
in your pond. The biological filter
will assist in removing many of
these toxic substances, as long
as the pond is not overstocked.
Pond fish are
dependent upon you to provide a
nutritionally balanced diet. A proper
diet will provide the fish with
the correct nutrition for healthy
growth and activity. In a natural
setting, pond fish have a varied
diet, based upon the season. The
seasons are determined by temperature
and so is the type of food your
fish should receive. In cooler temperatures,
when water temperatures are between
42º F (6º C) and 72º F (21º C),
fish require a high carbohydrate/reduced
protein diet. In cooler water, fish
metabolism slows and so does the
need for protein. Feeding a high
protein food in cooler waters will
result in poor water quality. In
fact, the excess protein is converted
to ammonia and excreted by the fish.
PondCare®Spring and Autumn Pond
Food is formulated to provide your
pond fish with the proper amount
of protein and easily digestible,
energy-rich carbohydrates. Spring
and Autumn Pond Food supplies pond
fish with their complete nutritional
requirement without reducing water
quality.
In warmer waters
above 65º F (18º C), protein metabolism
is very high. Proteins are required
for tissue formation and growth.
This means that fish require the
proper amount of proteins and carbohydrates
along with fats, minerals, nutrients
and vitamins. PondCare®Summer Staple
Pond Food contains 13 sources of
easily digestible protein, providing
a full spectrum of amino acids for
growth, spawning and fin development.
Summer Staple Pond Food is extremely
easy for the pond fish to digest
and provides a completely balanced
diet, which helps keep your pond
fish active and healthy.
In addition
to feeding your fish the correct
food based on water temperature,
all PondCare® pond foods
are enriched with vitamins and minerals
and a stabilized vitamin C polymer
to aid in maintaining your fish's
immune system. Both foods are specially
enriched with an exceptional color-enhancing
formula. Complete growth and coloration
will be achieved when you feed your
fish the way nature intended them
to eat. Remember-- Water temperature
is the key to determining what diet
is required for your fish
For fun and
to bring your fish to the surface
for viewing, use PondCare® Koi
Kookies®. PondCare®Koi Kookies
Floating Fish Treats contain stabilized
vitamin C, are fortified with vitamins,
minerals, and energy- rich carbohydrates
to help promote health and vigor.
They are easily digestible and can
be used when water temperature is
above 42ºF (6ºC). Koi Kookies floating
treats will not sink and foul pond
water.
Koi Kookies
allow you to see your fish! Feeding
Koi Kookies to pond fish is a delightful
experience. Not only will fish come
to the surface to play with and
eat the Koi Kookies as you watch,
but you can even train the koi to
take them from your hand.
It's easy to
keep your pond looking great if
you set it and stocked it properly.
As with any part of your landscape,
some maintenance is needed. Once
every three to four weeks during
the pond season, make a 15% to 25%
water change. The pond will accumulate
a large amount of dissolved organics
and natural acid that reduce water
quality and disrupt the pond's natural
balance. Remember Mother Nature's
"natural" ponds have a constant
flow of new water and a constant
"dirty" water outflow. Performing
a water change will reduce the build-up
of these and other pollutants. Always
treat your tap water a PondCare®water
conditioner such as Stress Coat®
whenever adding water to your pond.
All garden ponds
accumulate organic matter from the
time they are first filled with
water. Organic matter is naturally
produced from dead plants, algae,
as well as uneaten fish food and
waste. This organic build-up slowly
decays, creating toxic hydrogen
sulfide, ammonia and nitrite. Such
decay removes oxygen from your water
and lowers the pH. It also provides
an excellent breeding ground for
many fish diseases. PondCare®
Pond Zyme® Plus is an enzymatic
cleaner containing a concentrated
formula of fast-acting strains of
beneficial bacteria that create
and maintain sparkling clean water
gardens and koi ponds. Pond Zyme
Plus immediately begins breaking
down fish waste and dead algae that
cause cloudy water, sludge build-up,
and debris that clogs pumps and
filters. Pond Zyme Plus also digests
leaves and grass clippings that
may enter your pond.
Through enzymatic
action, Pond Zyme Plus reduces pond
maintenance and keeps pond water
clean and clear. Cleaner water means
healthier fish and a more beautiful
pond. Pond Zyme Plus is a100% natural
product, safe for all pond fish,
plants and wildlife. We recommend
the use of Pond Zyme Plus with Accu-ClearÒ,
a two-step approach for incomparable
pond cleanliness.
You will need
to check your filter routinely to
make sure that it is running at
peak efficiency. Make sure that
the PondCare®Polyester Pre-Filter
Pads (or the pads that came
with your filter) are clean so that
they can give maximum water filtration.
Secondly, remember to clean or change
pads frequently during the pond
season to maintain a clear pond.
When cleaning your filter pads,
don't use a garden hose, as this
will kill any beneficial bacterial
on the pads. Use a bucket of your
pond water to rinse off the pads.
Just don't dump the dirty water
back into the pond!
A proper maintenance
program will keep your pond is top
shape and allow you to have countless
hours of enjoyment and satisfaction.
Your plants and fish will reach
their maximum potential and provide
you with a showpiece for all to
enjoy. Remember that old saying,
"An ounce of prevention is worth
a pound of cure."
Winter is a
hard time for both the fish and
plants. Many different materials
may have been blown into your pond
over the cold winter months. Most
of the debris that found their way
into the pond did not decay because
of the cold water temperatures.
Spring is the correct time to clean
and inspect your pond. As water
temperature approaches 42º F (6ºC),
your fish will start to eat. (See
section on Proper Feeding.) At this
time, you should make a 15% to 25%
pond water change over several consecutive
days to eliminate the substances
that are polluting your pond. After
you have removed some of your pond
water, remove dead leaves and debris
that may have accumulated in the
pond.
Resume filtering
water through the filtration system
and add PondCare®BioFilter Booster
to improve the development of the
biological filter and keep your
pond naturally balanced. Use Polyester
Pre-Filter Pads and Activated Carbon
Coated Filter Pads in the filtration
system to remove particles and to
clear the water. Ammonia and nitrite
levels should be tested at least
weekly. If you get an ammonia or
nitrite spike follow the directions
on your PondCare®Test Kit
to solve the problem.
When doing spring
start-up water changes don't forget
you need to eliminate the toxic
substances found within tap water.
See the section on "Adding Water
To The Pond" for information on
turning tap water into pond water.
Fish also need electrolytes such
as potassium, sodium, magnesium,
chloride, and calcium to maintain
proper health. Pond Salt provides
all the essential electrolytes fish
need to survive. The level of salt
that you add to the pond water is
very low. You are not turning your
pond into "salty ocean" water.
For planted
ponds the level of salt is just
0.1% (1/10 of 1 %) and for fish-only
ponds the rate is just 0.2% (2/10
of 1%) This easy natural and inexpensive
step is beneficial to your fish.
As the salt stays in your pond when
water evaporates, but is removed
when you pump out water for water
changes; use a PondCare®Salt
Level Test Kit to keep proper
level of salt in the pond.
After a long
cold winter, pond fish are very
susceptible to diseases.
Use PondCare®
Stress Coat to restore the natural
slime coating that helps fight off
disease. The protective coating
of Aloe Vera found in Stress Coat
will also promote healing of damaged
skin. PondCare® MelaFix®,
an all-natural antibacterial remedy
for the treatment of koi and goldfish
diseases, will treat bacterial infections,
ulcers and open wounds that may
develop on your fish after a rough
winter or anytime throughout the
year. MelaFix will also rapidly
repair damaged fins and treat fin
and tail rot. MelaFix should be
used anytime you introduce new fish
into your pond.
MelaFix uses
the antibacterial power of Melaleuca
(Tea Tree) extract for the treatment
of bacterial infections. Healing
and tissue re-growth can often be
seen within four days of treatment.
MelaFix is safe for snails and other
invertebrates, safe for aquatic
plants, domestic animals and other
wildlife, and will not harm the
biological filter.
After winter,
re-establishing your aquatic plants
in the pond requires that the necessary
nutrients for growth and flowering
are made available. PondCare®
Aquatic Plant Food Tablets will
provide these necessary nutrients
to potted plants such as Water Lilies
and Lotus by the addition of tablets
to the soil in their pots. PondCare®
Aquatic Plant Stimulant is formulated
with the most important elements
for pond plant growth and flowering.
Floating plants with no soil, such
as Water Hyacinths, Water Lettuce,
and Elodea will flourish with Aquatic
Plant Stimulant. All of your aquatic
plants will produce more blooms
and achieve their greatest potential
when you use Aquatic Plant Stimulant
on a regular basis.
Over-wintering
the Water Garden.
Throughout the
summer, debris builds up in your
pond from falling leaves, fish waste,
decaying plants, and algae. Excess
organic matter will reduce water
quality and stress fish and plants
during the winter months. It is
important to properly prepare your
pond for winter. The following proven
techniques will keep your fish and
plants healthy during the long winter
months.
All summer long,
you've enjoyed the tranquility of
the water garden's - beautiful foliage,
sounds of trickling water and colorful
fish eagerly awaiting a handful
of food. The water garden didn't
get that way by itself. You added
the right kinds of plants and fish
to create a balanced ecosystem.
The water gardens we create look
beautiful and sustain life because
we follow nature's rules. During
the winter months, despite all outward
appearances, the pond is active
even when the water is cold or even
frozen. Dead leaves, algae, insects
and solid fish waste that have accumulated
over the summer slowly break down
during the winter months. This natural
decomposition uses oxygen and produces
small amounts of hydrogen sulfide,
a toxic gas that normally never
reaches a harmful level. Few water
gardeners realize that the pond
must be balanced in winter too.
Fish, frogs and other aquatic life
are especially sensitive to poor
water quality in winter.
A build-up of
leaves and other organic matter
can cause an imbalance, reducing
oxygen to dangerously low levels
and releasing poisonous hydrogen
sulfide. Use a PondCare®Pond
Skim Net to remove dead leaves.
Then use a PondCare® Algae &
Silt Strainer to remove excess
sludge from the bottom. You can
reduce sludge build-up with bacterial
"cleaning" products for water gardens,
such as PondCare® Pond Zyme®
Plus or EcoFix™. These
products contain bacteria that digest
dead algae, plants and sludge that
accumulate in filters and at the
bottom of the pond. Pond Zyme Plus
and EcoFix are all-natural bacterial
products and are completely safe
and they help keep water gardens
clean and clear.
While you're
stirring things up, you should change
some of the water. Algae-promoting
nutrients, dissolved organic matter
and natural acids build up in all
water gardens. These substances
can stress pond life and lower oxygen
and pH levels. Partial water changes
flush out these substances and improve
water quality. Change 50 % of the
water in your ponds in autumn. If
a pond has a lot of suspended matter
or the water is tinted yellow from
dissolved organics, make two water
changes a day apart. While pumping
out the water, you will stir up
the sludge. Pump out the sludge
and old water at the same time!
Remember to add Stress Coat to the
pond before refilling it with tap
water. Stress Coat will condition
the water and add a protective slime
coat for the fish. If your tap water
is treated with chloramine then
add PondCare® Ammo-Lock 2.
Many pond enthusiasts
add PondCare® Pond Salt to
replenish important electrolytes
to aid the fish during the stressful
winter months. Check the salt level
with a PondCare® Salt Level Test
Kit. If any of your pond fish
have been inadvertently wounded
while cleaning the pond, use
PondCare® MelaFix to help heal
these wounds.
This may seem
contradictory, but you want to leave
a little bit of debris in the pond
when preparing it for winter. Some
water gardeners net out the fish,
completely drain the water and scrub
out the pond, refilling it with
fresh water. Frogs, tadpoles, snails
and microscopic pond life need to
burrow down into mud and leaves
to survive the winter. Fish also
hibernate on the bottom, settling
in around a bed of leaves and mud.
Remove about 90% of the leaves and
silt that have accumulated over
the summer. Leave the rest as "bedding
material."
You'll be amazed
at the diversity of pond life that
emerges in spring. Keep in mind
that tree leaves will continually
fall into the pond as long as the
water isn't frozen. Cover your pond
with bird netting. This black plastic
netting is almost invisible and
prevents tree leaves and debris
from getting into the pond. Entering
the winter with a clean pond will
help keep your pond, its plants
and fish safe over the winter and
give them a strong start in the
spring.
You won't need
to filter the water but it's a good
idea to keep it moving at the pond's
surface. Pond life needs oxygen
even during hibernation. If ice
covers the surface of the pond,
oxygen can't get in and toxic gasses
can't get out. Submerged pumps with
fountains or waterfalls will oxygenate
the water and keep a portion of
the pond from freezing. If you live
in an area where the pond surface
freezes solid occasionally, use
a pump and fountain to aerate the
water. Set the pump on bricks about
one foot below the water surface.
This will prevent the pump from
getting clogged with leaves.
One thing to
remember, even when there is ice
on the surface the pond water is
warmer deeper in the pond. You don't
want to stir up this warmer water
or run waterfalls in the winter,
as this will lower (ever so slightly)
the temperature of the "warm" layer
of water where your fish will be
over-wintering. Floating pond heaters
are available to keep a small area
free of ice. You can also use an
aquarium air pump and diffuser stone
to oxygenate water and prevent ice
formation. Even if the pond should
completely freeze over, the air
pump keeps pumping oxygen into the
water. However, if you expect ice
for long periods of time, a hole
should be kept open.
The metabolism
of koi and goldfish is controlled
primarily by water temperature.
As the water cools, pond fish require
less protein in their diet. When
koi and goldfish are fed high-protein
food in cool water, the excess protein
is excreted as ammonia from the
gills. The microscopic organisms
that make up the biological filter
(and consume ammonia) also slow
down in cooler water. Improper seasonal
feeding can lead to a build-up of
toxic ammonia, which stresses fish
and reduces their winter survivability.
When the water temperature drops
to approximately 65°F (18ºC), start
feeding with PondCare® Spring
& Autumn Pond Food. This type
of fish food is better suited for
the dietary requirements of pond
fish in cool water and won't pollute
the water with excess ammonia. Some
water gardeners continue to feed
their fish until they no longer
come to the surface, but make sure
you stop feeding pond fish when
the water falls below 42° F (6ºC).
There is no
need to worry about "frozen fish"
if your pond has a section that
is at least 18 inches deep. Pond
fish will seek the deepest part
of the pond and over-winter there
until the water warms up in the
spring. If your pond is less than
18 inches deep, the fish may freeze
during a harsh winter. Check with
your local pond supplier if you
live in an area with harsh winters.
Water gardeners with shallow ponds
can keep their koi and goldfish
in kiddie pools or aquariums set
up in a cool basement or a garage.
All that is required is a Rena Aquarium
Air Pump or small fountain to provide
oxygenation. The fish are fed infrequently,
if at all, depending on the water
temperature. pH, ammonia and nitrite
should be monitored weekly, especially
if the fish are fed. Small water
changes (20%) each month will keep
the water clean until spring. Koi
are "jumpers" - be sure to cover
the pool with bird netting!
Long after the
impatiens have been pulled out,
water gardeners are still hoping
for that last lily bloom. For some
reason, we want to squeeze every
leaf, bud and blossom out of our
aquatic plants before winter. Unfortunately,
cold weather often comes before
we've trimmed the cattails or pruned
the lilies. Wait too long and all
those beautiful leaves will fall
off and rot in the water. Trim bog
and marsh plants such as papyrus,
taro and cattails, before frost
hits. Pull out the hardy water lilies
and trim off all the leaves. Yes,
even that last bud! Put all the
potted plants into the deepest area
of the pond to prevent freeze damage.
Tropical lilies won't survive the
winter and are often treated as
annuals, discarded in autumn.
Some water gardeners
have saved tropical lilies by storing
them in peat moss. Trim off the
leaves and roots and cover the rhizomes
in a tray of damp (not wet) peat
moss. The peat moss has antiseptic
properties and helps inhibit rotting
of the rhizome. The tray of peat
moss should be kept in a cool basement
or a garage and sprayed with water
periodically to prevent drying out.
Inexpensive submerged plants, such
as Elodea and Cabomba should be
discarded.
A problem that
may be encountered by moving plants
and fish indoors to a warmer climate
is an introducing of unwanted parasites.
Some harmful parasites that were
kept in check in the pond but can
be problematic indoors are Chilodonella,
ich (Ichthyophthirius), gill flukes
(Dactylogyrus), Trichina, costia
(Ichthiobodo), and body flukes (Gyrodactylus).
Most parasites will be too small
to be seen without a microscope.
However, your fish will exhibit
several signs indicating a parasitic
infestation. Parasites often attack
the gills, resulting in difficulty
in breathing. Pond fish will either
sit motionless on the bottom of
the pond or hang near the surface
at splash zones, such as waterfalls
or fountains. Other symptoms will
be flashing, scratching, hyperactivity,
and darting. PondCare® MelaFix®
Antibacterial Remedy will heal
bacterial infections.
Performing these
simple maintenance procedures ensures
you that you have done everything
you can to prepare your pond and
fish for another season. It is highly
recommended that the above maintenance
take place in the fall when fish
are at their healthiest.
Green Water, Cloudy
Water - What should I Do?
Many water gardeners
ask, "Natural ponds aren't green.
Why does mine look like pea soup?"
The answer is fundamental to understanding
why so many ponds have algae problems.
In nature, you won't find a 500-gallon
pond filled with 25 pounds of koi.
Natural ecosystems cannot support
such a high fish load. Compared
to nature, our ponds contain several
thousand times the number of fish
per gallon of "living space"! Despite
the notion that water gardens duplicate
nature, man-made ponds are very
unnatural in just about every biological
and chemical aspect. This is not
to say that natural processes are
not contributing to the health of
the pond. On the contrary, we must
use and manage these processes to
keep water gardens beautiful. Nowhere
is this truer than in algae control.
When a pond
is first established, the water
is crystal clear. As fish and plants
are introduced into the pond, almost
instantly a serene and natural-looking
environment is created. Over time,
however, pond water can become murky.
Suspended sediment or algae blooms
can cause murky conditions. Both
problems are discussed below, as
well as methods to correct them.
Algal blooms
appear as green water, "pea-green
soup," or filamentous mats that
float to the water's surface. Algae
grow when there is an excessive
amount of nutrients in the water,
usually in spring prior to plant
growth.
Excessive phosphate
and nitrate are two of the major
components contributing to algae
growth. *These nutrients can come
from tap water, rain runoff, fish
waste, and debris. Many blue-green
algae species (Anabaena, Aphanizomenon,
Gleotrichia, and Nostoc) respond
to excess phosphate in the water,
and can lead to algae problems in
the pond. Therefore, reduction of
phosphate is essential to control
algal blooms.
If algae does
not obtain adequate sunlight, they
cannot grow. PondCare® Algae
Blocker will tint the water
an attractive blue color, inhibiting
algal growth by reducing available
sunlight in the water. Algae Blocker
also enhances the appearance of
water lilies by providing an attractive
blue tint to the water that some
people enjoy.
Sometimes all
efforts of "natural" methods don't
seem to work, or you've run out
of time and patience. In that case
PondCare® AlgaeFix can be
your answer to the green water and
string algae. The pond owners' number
one problem has been green water
from -single cell algae, blanket
weed, and string and hair algae.
Previously all algaecides were non-selective
and killed or damaged all plants
in the pond along with the algae.
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals,
Inc offers an effective, E.P.A.
registered selective algae control
product that solves green water
pond problems. AlgaeFix cures green
water problems and the unique formula
means AlgaeFix can be used in ponds
with plants. Plus, AlgaeFix is E.P.A.
registered for use in the United
States to control Sting Algae and
Blanket Weed! (Oedogonium).
Pond water clarity
can be diminished by sediment or
suspended debris. The small particles
associated with this type of problem
are so fine that the pond filter
cannot trap them. PondCare® Accu-Clear
simply clumps together or flocculates
these tiny particles, allowing them
to either settle to the bottom of
the pond or be removed by the pond
filter. Thus, you can help your
pond filter work at maximum efficiency
by using Accu-Clear.
NOTE:
When trying to clear any cloud in
your pond, make sure you provide
plenty of aeration.
*''Water Pollution
Control Federation. Nutrient Control
- Manual of Practice FD-7 Facilities
Design. Washington, D.C. 1983.
Information
as prepared by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals.
©
Copyright Aquarium Pharmaceuticals,Inc.
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